asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
I created these questions are based on comments people left in response to Nando's two stories, but especially the more recent one, "Mauko Meets a Monkey." If they sound a little stilted, it's because it's my translation back into English of what I sent to him--I'm not good enough in Tetun to ask highly subtle, highly nuanced questions. You'll see that his replies are sort of adjacent to the questions rather than direct answers, again, most certainly due to my inability to express myself adequately. It would have taken more back-and-forth to get to clarity, and somehow to keep pressing felt it might have become unwelcome browbeating? And I wanted to hear what Nando was saying, which I think is illuminating and worthwhile, even if it's only tangential to what I was asking.

Question 1: In your two stories, people become wise through miracles from animals. Both Mr. Mau Leki and Mauko can cure people’s illnesses. In traditional stories, do animals sometimes give other miracles or other wisdom? Sometimes can plants or stones give miracles or wisdom to people?

Nando's answer:

People’s wisdom comes from education.

The miracles that they get are like a natural wisdom that is different with different people. Out of a thousand people living in a village, ones who have experienced a miracle from some other thing are maybe one, or maybe there isn’t even one.

Right now, there is one uncle, named Fideli, who lives in our neighborhood. This neighbor obtained a miracle from some other thing that made him able to cure people’s illnesses. He cures people who have had accidents like fractured legs or arms from falling from motorcycles. He uses the wisdom which he received to cure those broken legs or arms, returning them to normal, just as they were.

And now the government of Timor-Leste has also conferred an award on him. Now he is still curing people’s illnesses, and the government of Timor-Leste has given him a private hospital. He cures people’s sickness and doesn’t ask for any money when people get sick. Instead, he asks for a rooster from them, and also seven five-cent coins. Then he prays that they get better. After that he kills the rooster to make a dinner or lunch for everyone to eat together, and he takes the seven coins when he goes to church and gives them as alms.

Nando adds:

(This is really happening right now. If someone from America comes to Timor Leste soon, I can show them, and explain it to them.)

Question 2: Readers can know Mauko’s heart is big and wonderful because he gives a cure to the baby monkey. He loves people like his parents and siblings, but he also loves animals like the baby monkey. In your experience, are there people that love the land like Mauko loves the baby monkey? For example, people that want to cure the land’s illness?

Nando's answer:

Mauko cures the baby monkey because he cares about animals. He is the simplest person in his family.

There are lots of people who find an animal who has fallen, and they catch and kill it. They are very different from Mauko.

There are lots of monkeys that are just like ordinary animals, but the one monkey that Mauko met was very different from other monkeys, so Mauko considered this one to be a miracle that God had bestowed on him.

God doesn’t bestow miracles directly upon people. Rather, God bestows miracles on people through other people or things.

Question 3: Mauko’s disability can’t be hidden. People can see that his left eye is cloudy. One reader asks, Is people’s discrimination against Mauko worse because people can see his disability? If Mauko’s disability could be hidden, would people not discriminate? What do you think?


Nando's answer:

People discriminate against him because he is a person with a disability, and many people are disgusted by him and don’t want to see him in their presence. Even his brothers and sisters are ashamed of his disability and don’t like to spend time with him or help him. He was a person with a disability, but maybe if people didn’t feel disgusted, then they wouldn’t discriminate.
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
Before I talk about some of my own thoughts on "Mauko Meets a Monkey," I'd like to highlight some of the things other people have brought up:
  • [personal profile] cafenowhere talked about aspects of disability, what's considered a disability, and what needs healing (thread here);

  • [personal profile] sartorias saw parallels with Chinese storytelling (thread here);

  • [personal profile] wayfaringwordhack noticed common themes with the last story and mused on healing the land v. healing people (and then we got into talking about translation, storytelling, and different kinds of stories--thread here).

  • [personal profile] amaebi enjoyed the celebration of daily life and wondered what jobs the brothers and sisters went off to do (a good question--I'll have to ask!), and I'm happy that many of you enjoyed the photos.

One thing that struck me--and this was true in the last story, too--was how, confronted with the supernatural or otherwise uneasy-making things, the characters' response is to just be/stay silent (nonook de'it). Faced with a monkey who can bring either good or ill fortune: be quiet. After a dream or vision: sit silently. Told about your new destiny: sit quietly.

When you are still and quiet, you may evade the attention of powerful and dangerous forces in the world--that's what's going on when Mauko's dad tells him to be quiet. But also, when you're quiet, you can notice things, think about things. You're not jumping to conclusions or actions too quickly. You're letting your own thoughts--and the situation--develop.

It's refreshing to see this held up as a virtue--or maybe just as good common sense.

And then I was really struck by how listening, attention, and reflection are key to Mauko's vocation as a healer. I was imagining the aunt, who has been suffering for so many years. I was imagining her having Mauko listen to her attentively. And then he goes and prays for an answer: this is a continued focus on her, a respectful, humble focus. I was thinking about how healing just that very attention could be! It reminded me of my feeling about traditional healing as described in the movie Holding Tightly, which I talked about here.

It's something that's so entirely lost from medicine as practiced in the United States. I know there are doctors, nurses, and aids who do try to truly listen, to be attentive--but they are trying to be so in a horrible system, a crushing machine that punishes that behavior and rewards treating people as widgets that you move through your assembly line. Medical investigation is about isolating active ingredients, extracting them, and dosing people with them. But in many cases, that's just not how healing works. Don't get me wrong: I am happy to have antibiotics to vanish away illnesses that can be vanished away in that manner, and I'm happy for vaccines and X-rays and all the rest. But this other aspect is so very important and so very missing. As a healer, Mauko brings the gift of quietness and attention, and as an advocate, he gets the government to heal root problems: let everyone attend school; value all people.
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
I’m delighted to share with you a second story from Fernando da Costa Pires, this one dealing with the life of Mauko, who is born with a disability. Nando’s statement about why he wrote the story is below.

Ha’u kontente loos aprezenta ba imi istória ne’e, istória daruak husi Fernando da Costa Pires. Istória ne’e ko’alia kona-ba problema saúde defisiente. Imi bele lee kona-ba Sr. Nando nia intensaun iha “author statement" okos. (Ha’u husu deskulpa ba ha’u nia liafuan la loos iha Tetun.)

The story is direct and simple in how it’s told, but I felt a strong weight of emotion behind it: the emphasis, for instance, on the fact that Mauko’s parents loved him, and the anxiety they expressed when they talked in bed together. I know these are conversations that parents all over the world have as they worry about providing for children with disabilities after they themselves are gone.

Some of the details of the storytelling may seem strange: the focus on how long it takes to get to school or how big kumbili1 are, but I like them for what they tell me. I met kids in Ainaro who had to walk similar distances to get to school. (Why does it take less time to get home, Wakanomori asked me—not a question I put to Nando, but I would guess it’s a matter of whether you’re going mainly uphill or mainly downhill.) And I liked knowing the process of digging up kumbili, and how big they are. (Were those details written with a foreign audience in mind? Maybe. But maybe they were also written for a city-dwelling audience in Dili, Timor-Leste’s capital.)

I have some other thoughts to share as well, but I’ll save them until after you’ve had a chance to read the story.

If you would like a PDF of the story in English, Tetun, or both, leave me a message here or email me at forrestfm@gmail.com.
Se imi hakarak istória ne’e (PDF) iha inglés, Tetun, ka versaun rua ne’e, hakerek mensajen okos ka, manda email mai ha’u: forrestfm@gmail.com.

And if you have any questions for Nando, type them here and I’ll share them with him.
Se iha pergunta ba Sr. Nando, bele hakerek mensajen okos no ha’u fó-hatene ba nia.

Author statement )

Mauko Meet a Monkey: English Version )

Mauko Hasoru Lekirauk: Versaun Tetun )

1Kumbili is Dioscorea esculenta, known in English as “lesser yam.”
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
I've finally finished translating the next story that my friend Nando (Fernando da Costa Pires) sent me back in July last year. From its title, this one might sound like the last one, only this time our protagonist is meeting a monkey instead of an eel. But it's actually very different: for one thing, the hero, Mauko, is disabled, and the story has a lot to say about how disabled people have been regarded in Timor-Leste. It has some magical elements like the last story, but every detail strikes me more deeply this time than last time--though I loved last time's story too. I have more things to say about it, but I'll save them for when I post the story. I've also asked Nando to write an author's statement, so he can share some of his own thoughts on the topic of disability and why he wrote the story.
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
There's a woman from Timor-Leste I follow on Facebook, Esteviana Amaral, who shares beautiful, sometimes funny, sometimes touching reflections on daily life. Kirsty Sword Gusmão put me onto her with this video (in which you can hear Tetun spoken beautifully). Since then, I've been enjoying--and sometimes translating--her work. Here is one from last Thursday. (Her original post)


(The photo is the one Esteviana shared with the post)

Her words:

Iha momentu balu ita presiza tuur no haree de'it natureza halo nia servisu, udan monu ba rai, kalohan nakukun no loro-matan sa'e.

Momentu sira ne'e bele repete maibé kada minutu ne'ebé liu ho nia istória rasik. Husik natureza hala'o nia knaar no buka tuir ó-nia ksolok rasik.

My translation:
In some moments we need to sit and just watch nature doing her work, rain falling to the ground, dark clouds, and the sun rising.

These moments will repeat, but each minute passes with its own story. This self-same nature carries out her duties and seeks after your joy herself.

Kirsty liked my translation and shared it on her Facebook page!
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
These questions are a mix of Tetun and English. Where they're in Tetun (probably riddled with errors), I've supplied English, but I haven't attempted to translate my English-language questions into Tetun. Similarly, where Nando answered in Tetun, I've translated the answers into English, but where he answered in English, I haven't ventured a translation. Ha'u husu deskulpa tanba la bele tradús hotu ba Tetun 😓

Nando da Costa Pires


Nando da Costa Pires is the author of "Mr. Mau Leki Meets an Eel," which you can read here.

(Nando da Costa Pires mak hakerek na'in "Sr. Mau Leki Hetán Majiku Husu Tuna," ne'ebe mak bele lee iha ne'e (okos).)

I asked him some questions ...

Can you tell us about reading when you were growing up in Ainaro?

Tuir ha’u nia hanoin kona ba reading iha Ainaro ladun le’e livru barak tanba livre ba le’e la to.

(According to my view, many in Ainaro didn’t read books because books were not available for all, but some people did find a way to read books.)

When I was a child, I didn’t read any books because I didn’t have any. Sometimes I asked other people to show me some to help me do my homework, and sometimes I borrowed my friends’ books to read.

When you were a child, what things did you do each day?

When I came back from school each day, I spent my time helping my family a lot on the farm.

Follow-up Question:
Bainhira Alin Nando sei ki’ik oinsa mak ajuda ita-nia familia iha to’os?

(When you were little, how did you help your family on the farm?)


Wainhira hau sei kiik, hau ajuda hau nia familia mak hanesan hamoos duut ou kuru bee lori ba hau nia inan aman hemu no hili ai hodi tein ba meiudia sira han.

(When I was little, I helped my family by doing things like weeding, or fetching water for my parents to drink and gathering wood to cook everyone’s midday meal.)

In school, what subjects did you like? Were there any subjects that you did not like?

In my school, I liked math and science. The subject I didn’t like was talking about politics.

You told me that your grandmother told you the story of Mr. Mau Leki and the eel. Did she tell you many other stories?

Nia konta istória só iha tempu espesiál ka beibeik ka?

(Did she tell stories only on special occasions or all the time?)


When I was a child, my grandmother told me many stories. She would tell me stories two times a month, or sometimes three times a month.

Who else in your family told stories?

My parent and my uncle (my father’s brother).

You told me “istória nee realidade akontese duni” (“this story really happened”).
Ha’u fiar ita, tanba mundu ne’e misteriozu no buat hotu (ema, animal, ai-hun, rai, lalehan, klamar) mak ligadu malu

(I believe you because this world is mysterious, and everything (people, animals, trees, earth, heaven, spirits) is connected to each other.)

So, I want to ask: What important things do stories like this one teach us?

(Istória hanesan ne’e hanorin ba ita buat importante saida?)


Istória nia importante mak hanorin mai ita atu kuidadu ita nia natureza sira, no karik ita hetan milagre husi natureza nia forsa, ita bele uza forsa ne’e bele tulun fali ita nia maluk sira ne'ebé presiza ita nia ajuda.

(This story’s importance is that it teaches us to take care of our natural world, and that if we obtain miracles from the forces of nature, we can use that power to help our families and friends when they need our help.)

Liu husi istória ne’e ema bele hadomi liu tan sira nia ambiente.

(Through this story, people can come to love their environment more.)

Hanorin ami atu oinsá atu ajuda ema seluk, karik sira presiza ita nia tulun.

(It teaches us how to help other people, if they need our help.)

Follow-up question:
Alin Nando dehan, “karik ita hetan milagre husi natureza nia forsa, ita bele uza forsa ne’e bele tulun fali ita nia maluk sira ne'ebé presiza ita nia ajuda.” Alin Nando rasik iha esperiensia ne’e?

(You said, “if we obtain miracles from nature’s power, we can use that power to help our families and friends when they need our help.” Have you yourself had that experience?)


Iha, tanba hau nia avo hetan duni milagre balun husi natureza tanba nia kura duni ema balun ne’ebé hetan moras no nia tana hodi siik ema nia moras no nia fo aimoruk tradisional ba ema moras nee.

I have, because my grandfather has indeed experienced various miracles from nature, because he has truly cured a number of people who were sick, and he performs divinations in order to understand people’s illnesses, and he gives traditional medicine to these sick people.

Is this the first time you have ever written a story?

Yes. It is the first time for me to write a story.

Do you read many stories? If yes, what types of story do you like?

Yes, I do read stories, but not many. I read some stories in Tetun from Revista Lafaek.

In your opinion, what is the difference between reading a story and listening to someone tell a story?

In my opinion, reading stories improves our comprehension about the things the story is talking about. We learn something from the story, and we come to know about interesting places. And also, we can read the story to our family.

In my opinion, when we listen to someone tell a story, we must listen carefully to the person so that we can understand the meaning of the story.


You studied math at university and now help students learn math. What methods do you use?

Yes. My experience is this: first I must prepare worksheets for the students, and then give them some examples and explain it to them. I must give exercises for student do in the class, and then I must check if they understand how to do it. And I must give them homework to reinforce what I taught, and later I must check their homework.

Follow-up question:
Kona-ba estudante ita-nian: sira-nia idade saida?

(About your students: what are their ages?)


Kona-ba estudante sira nia idade husi idade 8 to 17.

(About the students: they range in age from 8 to 17.)

Obrigada barak ba intervista ne’e no ba istória furak ne’ebe mak ita hakerek.
Ha’u hein katak ita hakerek istória barak tan!

(Thank you very much for this interview and for the wonderful story that you wrote.
I hope that you write lots more stories!)


asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
This is a story that Nando (Fernando da Costa Pires), whom I met in 2013 when I visited Ainaro, Timor-Leste, wrote. Stories of special relationships between people and the natural and supernatural world are not uncommon in Timor, but this story is unique: it's part of Nando's own family history. I've translated it into English, and we present you with both versions, so that readers of both Tetun and English can enjoy it. Tomorrow I will post an interview with Nando.

Fernando da Costa Pires



Versaun Tetun iha versaun Inglés nia okos. Ami espera imi gosta istória ida ne'e husi Ainaro. Aban ha'u sei ta'u intervista ida ho Nando iha website ne'e.

Mr. Mau Leki Meets an Eel )

Sr. Mau Leki Hetán Majiku Husi Tuna )

donations )
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
You may remember that I encouraged anyone I knew from my visit to Timor-Leste in 2013 to send in a story to Strange Horizons for their Southeast Asian writers issue. They were specifically looking for submissions from Timor-Leste.

My call on Facebook didn't get much traction--probably because I'm not very active on the site, so it deprioritizes my posts in people's feeds--but one acquaintance reached out to me, a guy called Nando. I remembered his smile super-well. He's just one year older than the healing angel, my youngest kid.

He's not fluent enough in English to write in English, though, so he wrote his story in Tetun, and I translated it--and wrote about what a thrill that was. We submitted it ... but it was rejected.

Of course there are a million possible reasons why a thing is rejected, but I would guess it's because Nando's story is a folktale rather than an invention of his own. It's a story his grandmother told him about his own family. It's a true story, he says, though it's filled with magic. I don't doubt him: the world is filled with magic. But I suspect for these reasons, and for the manner of its telling--and who knows, maybe the manner of my translating--it didn't ping as speculative fiction in the editor's mind.

I thought of trying to submit it elsewhere, but I also thought of the heartbreak that involves (or can involve). And that's not what Nando signed up for: he was submitting to this one magazine's one special issue, which I'd called to his attention. (I did tell him that rejection was a possibility.)

So I thought, why not publish it here on my blog? If **I** publish it, I can include the photos he sent me of the places mentioned in the story. AND, I can include the Tetun version of the story, so people from Timor-Leste can read it too. If I publish both the Tetun and the English, then it can also conceivably be a resource for people, all sorts of people, who are interested in the culture of Timor-Leste and stories from Ainaro. And if I publish it, I can do an interview with him.

I can't afford to pay as much as Strange Horizons would have, but I can afford semipro rates, so I offered, and he accepted. (And doing foreign remittances was an interesting experience, but that's a blog post for another day. Suffice it to say, PayPal doesn't operate in Timor and there's no post office, so I sent money via Western Union.)

I have all the pieces, and over tomorrow and Wednesday, I'll prepare them and put them up. I hope you all enjoy the story, and please, when it comes out, share the link widely! I really want people to know about this story. There is SO LITTLE fiction/folklore from Timor-Leste available for the Anglophone public.
asakiyume: (good time)
Two exciting things!

First, Strange Horizons is doing a special issue featuring Southeast Asian writers, and on Twitter they mentioned especially that they'd love to get someone from Timor-Leste. So on Facebook I posted about that and one of my acquaintances from when I went there in 2013 messaged me! He wanted details, and he said he'd try writing something if I could help him translate it. I said yes! And the other day he sent me a 3,500 word story. And now I'm working on translating it!

I can't convey sufficiently how exciting this is for me. I daydreamed, when I was over there, about how great it would be to hear local stories and tales--or even to read them. But it seemed worlds away, requiring so much study, and was I likely to do all that work for a place I might never go back to? But I did it! And now I can help someone share his stories with the world! So there's that thrill, but then there's the thrill of the tale itself. It seems very folktale-esque so far (I'm not quite a third of the way through it), but all the little details! Details about how to clear a patch of forest to make a field (bring your axe and your machete--which, amusingly, in Tetun is called a katana), put little stones around the perimeter, cut all the grass, weeds, and other plants, let them dry, then burn them. It was the tools and the little stones that I was especially excited about. And then details about what they eat for lunch, and bathing in a stream... all of it. Now maybe these are just folktale elements, but they're new-to-me folktale elements. I love them.

Now I'm waiting for a promised magical eel to appear.

Second, my ESL tutee and I are going to experiment with making Salvadoran chicha! She was telling me her mother sometimes makes this alcoholic drink to sell to people, and I was asking how she did it, and I thought... why don't we try it? So we're going to. Ingredients are seed corn, panela (unrefined sugarcane juice, condensed into a brick), a pineapple rind, and water. And time ;-)

I'll let you know how it turns out.
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
I finished watching Laloran Justisa yesterday--I'll miss it so much; I loved it. There were a few series-long story arcs to wrap up, the most moving being the story of the main character Rosa's missing older sister. In Episode 1 Rosa and her mother are sitting in a church, remembering Adelina, who was stolen away by the Indonesians during the occupation. This happened a *lot*. They are looking at a photo from Rosa's baptism.

the rest of the story )

Super happy ending.
asakiyume: (Timor-Leste nia bandeira)
On Thursday I sat in on a workshop critiquing some recent papers relating to Timorese culture. (It's one true blessing to come out of this pandemic: people from all over the world can meet and talk with ease via Zoom: participants were in Japan, India, Brazil, Timor-Leste, Canada, and the United States, and I, a non-academic, was allowed to audit.) All of the papers sounded fascinating (the one that critiqued NGO activity as, in some regards, a continuation of colonialism had me nodding like a bobblehead doll, as it's something I often think).

But what seized my imagination was Alberto Fidalgo Castro's discussion of the concept of lulik, which usually is translated as "sacred," as in uma lulik, sacred house. But Alberto and others point out that it's not that some things are lulik and others are not: anything has the potential to become lulik. He referenced an earlier paper of his (which I tracked down and downloaded) that gave five everyday cases of that--like the case of the knife. In the paper he writes:
One Thursday, when I was drinking breakfast coffee in the kitchen, I couldn't find a spoon to help myself to some sugar, so I used a knife that was on the table. Ms. Rosita saw me, and scandalized, she asked me to stop doing that and ordered her son to find me a spoon. I didn't want to cause any trouble, so I told her that it wasn't necessary, that the knife was fine. Ms. Rosita was surprised at my response and explained to me that I couldn't take sugar with a knife, because it was lulik: it would give me an ailment of the heart1

In person he was more detailed: he said that a knife is for cutting, and if you stir in sugar with a knife, you are cutting the coffee, and this will cut your insides, your heart.

In the paper, another example was when he came back to the house where he was staying and, being tired, rested his head on the table. In this case he was told
Kole, ba toba iha kama. Toba iha meza ne'e lulik ("If you're tired, go sleep in your bed. Sleeping on the table is lulik." I sat up right away and asked why it was lulik to sleep on the table. They told me, Ema mate mak toba iha meza ... Ita ema moris, toba iha kama ("It's the dead who sleep on a table. We living people sleep in beds")2

I realize as I type this out that the people are saying the situation is lulik, not the object, whereas when he was talking about the concept, he seemed to be stressing a transformation in the object, too. I don't know whether it's accurate to say that both things are true or if it's even a distinction that's made in Timor, but that's what my mind fixes on: how the status of the object changes when it's misused--it seems so very, very applicable to so much of life.

1 Alberto Fidalgo Castro, "Personas y objetos en Timor Oriental: Relaciones lulik entre entidades," Ankulegi 21 (2017), 30 (my super rough translation).
2(same, 31).
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
Laloran Justisa is up front about being didactic/educational: it covers issues like domestic abuse, alcoholism, presumption of innocence, nepotism, and so on. The most recent episode dealt in part with an upright young police officer with a secret in his past: his brothers were part of pro-Indonesia militias that formed after Timor-Leste declared in a 1999 referendum that it wanted to be independent of Indonesia.

quickie historical review )

In an earlier episode, Vitór and the idealistic lawyer Rosa bump into each other at the Centro Nasional Chega, a museum that documents the abuses of the Indonesian occupation.



In another episode, Vitór is present at the commemoration of the anniversary of the 1991 Santa Cruz massacre, when the Indonesian military gunned down some 250 protestors, in Santa Cruz cemetery in Dili, including schoolchildren.

Santa Cruz cemetery


Students participating in the commemoration


Vitór, in uniform this time, watching


His brothers' participation in pro-Indonesia militias is revealed, and he loses his job, but Rosa helps him recover it. It helps that he himself did not participate. But by having him talk about the situation in his suco (village) at the time, the show is able to broach why people did participate.

Here he's saying what his brothers did, but earlier he says, "In my village, there was a lot of pressure for us to be part of Indonesia, and those who joined the militia were given money, nice clothes, and good food." Since deliberate starvation was an Indonesian policy tactic that killed more than 180,000 people,1 "good food" was a compelling benefit.



I think about this a lot, about how you weave together a people that have been unraveled.

1Sian Powell, "UN Verdict on East Timor," The Australian, January 19, 2006, courtesy of the Wayback Machine.

journal

Jan. 6th, 2022 09:08 pm
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
I'm moving around some diaries I wrote, and I started reading the one I kept in Timor-Leste, and it's full of details that of course I'd completely forgotten. THANK YOU, past me, for writing things down!

Like this:

"More notes I made from the early morning in Dili: lettuce and other greens on the roofs of taxis; at one place where we waited, a little boy shooting tiny rubber bands through a gate at sparrows."

Or this from the bus from Ainaro back to Dili:

"Across the aisle from us, someone had a rooster, a hen, and some chicks shoved underneath the seat. I don't think they were in a cage, and yet they didn't flutter all over, but sometimes the rooster would crow, and the chicks would cheep."
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
I keep on promising word-content, but the will is weak. Instead, have some pictures.

In the interim between Tetun classes, my classmate and I have been practicing, in part by watching the drama Laloran Justisa, Waves of Justice. It's subtitled in English, and I'll listen over and over to catch and try to learn the Tetun phrases. I take screenshots from it and then we ask each other questions about them in Tetun. But I love them also just for daily life in Timor-Leste, unspoken things that are conveyed:

Here Anata is crying because her daughter is sick (because people have been illegally dumping motor oil, and it's contaminated the groundwater) and her house is a mess and the legal-aid people will be coming soon. But what I was interested in was (a) the bed on a mat in the corner, the fact that she's got her husband's fighting cock attached to her toe by a string, and the nature of the mess: the footwear, the little toys--I spied a tiny pink plastic chair and could imagine a child playing house with it.



Here, Anata, her husband Rui (in the green shirt), Rosa, the public defender, and Eduardo, who works for a public-aid NGO, go to the well to get the water sample that's going to end up proving that the groundwater is contaminated. It was fascinating to see the plastic container repurposed to be a bucket, to see the cover for the well (with a rock to hold it down--but also that the director (Bety Reis) had had all the children cluster round to see what the grownups are up to. Very real!



When they're drawing the water, Rui points out the auto shop that he's sure is the source of the problem. "He's sure about many things," Anata says sourly. "He was born sure." There are lots of great lines in the show. At one point one guy asks another if he wants to get their band back together and the guy says, "I would rather swim naked in a pool filled with crocodiles." --So that's a no! But later he comes round, and when he's talking about what changed his mind, he says, "You can try to ignore music, but it constantly reaches out to you." ^_^

Here, Tinho, a boy who's not in school (he came down to Dili from Ainaro! Where I visited!), and Cisco, a boy who is, join together because they're both worried about a teacher, Inêz. (She's been teaching Tinho to read in her off hours and fighting the headmaster over the lack of schoolbooks at Cisco's school. The headmaster has been diverting the books and selling them in another part of Timor-Leste, and when Inêz starts investigating, he gets her fired.) What I like is how the two boys just drape arms over each other like that on first acquaintance. (Tinho did earlier demonstrate his chops as a soccer player, which Cisco appreciated, so maybe they already sense they're destined to be buddies.)



And this is just a market scene I liked. The girl in the foreground is playing with a bit of string. The director has lots of beautiful shots like this.

asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
My Tetun classmate alerted me to this film on healing in Timor-Leste. It's beautiful in every way: as a respectful inquiry into other people's ways of living and dealing with injury and illness, as cinematography, and as a meditation on what healing and care is. As the introductory text on Vimeo says,
The film asks viewers to consider what we understand health and wellbeing to mean, showing how healing is intimately entangled with forms of belief and care grounded in deep connections between people and their environments.

The directors interview a number of healers, including one doctor from what they call the formal sector. Everyone shares their thoughts and personal history so generously--including three smiling little girls, who talk about the little remedies their mother has taught them.





This is something we can all relate to! Put aloe on a burn, put jewelweed on poison ivy (if you live in the US), put a dock leaf on a nettle sting (if you live in the UK). And probably all of us have others--I remember being told sugar would draw out a splinter, for instance, and to gargle with hot salt water if I had a sore throat.

More broadly, though, the US medical system is alienating in every way that the healing practices described here are affirming. I'm not saying everything about traditional healing is perfect--humans are still humans, and any system is open to human failure, and Timorese people themselves (as the directors talk about in a scholarly paper on the same topic) are uneasy about the possibility for charlatans. ... But of course US medical practice has its charlatans too.

I felt a powerful longing... )

I think the thing I felt most strongly in the film was the sense of connection between and among everything, the sense that a single act of healing reaches back into families and down into the earth.

Link to the film is here. It's 30 minutes.
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
During the summer I took the level-one Tetun course (Tetun: the lingua franca in Timor-Leste) offered through Timorlink. It's an Australia-based program, but the teachers all have deep connections with Timor-Leste.

Next week I'm starting the level-two course, and--because life is stranger than fiction--my teacher is going to be none other than the inestimable Kirsty Sword Gusmão.

Life keeps thrilling me--I feel so lucky to be alive!
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
One of the most adventurous things I've ever done was go to Timor-Leste, alone, and not just Timor-Leste, but Ainaro, a mountain town a half-day's journey from Dili, the capital. I'm proud of myself for that: I found an English-teaching organization that I could plausibly crash without inconveniencing them too terribly; I reached out, made an application, got accepted, saved money, and went.

My first night was spent in a hostel in Dili. I had gotten a private room, but I was so tense, knowing that the next morning I must successfully get on a bus to Ainaro, that there was no way I could settle. I came out into a common room where an Australian guy was sitting on a fake leather couch, having beer after beer, and watching cartoons on an old TV. He said something pleasant when I came in, and after that we just sat silently together, watching the cartoons. Just being in the presence of another human relaxed me.

I got on the bus successfully the next day--this entry talks about the trip and mentions Victor, the guy I traveled pressed against, because the bus was very packed.

As shelter-in-place has stretched on, the thing I've been thinking of, about that trip--something I didn't mention in that entry--was how soothed I felt to be body-to-body next to someone. It must sound strange. I know that in those sorts of situations on public transportation the world over people get assaulted or harassed, but that wasn't my experience. On the contrary, I felt as safe and cared-for a baby in a parent's arms. I know I was just a visitor and guest, but with skin pressed against skin, I had a literal, tactile connection, and it soaked in. I mean, I don't know how it was for Victor! But for me, something has lingered and never left.

That's something people are missing now. I think of people who are going through quarantine alone, not able to touch anyone ... it's terrible. But I think it's more than that, because I have a husband and a (grown) child whom I can touch and who can touch me, and yet I'm still craving something. My skin yearns to touch and be touched by others--acquaintances, friends, strangers.

Well. Quarantine won't last forever.
asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)







This description came from someone's article in Australian Road Rider about a motorbike trip around East Timor:

I’ve never seen a road being handmade before. There were young men and boys placing river pebbles and stones in a neat arrangement, others tended fires on which 44-gallon drums of tar rested. A few men had ladles on long poles which they dipped into the drums of molten tar then carried to the stone sections and poured.

Source: "East Timor: Land of Children"

Here's a photo of roadbuilding in Timor-Leste from 2010, courtesy of Wikipedia:



asakiyume: (glowing grass)
On this day in Pen Pal, nothing particular happened, but in the note that Kaya wrote her mother on July 4, she mentioned the research station in W--, where she used to work. At the research station, they test and develop new strains of cash and subsistence crops, as well as work on plants for soil replenishment, etc.

In Timor-Leste, Seeds of Life does this work. Here are two crops that were developed in Baucau, Timor-Leste, and that are among 11 being tested with local farmers:


"Deep purple" sweet potato; photo by Alexia Skok


Red rice; photo by Alexia Skok

“[These] varieties are locally sourced and already popular among farming families for their taste and colour,” says Research Coordinator Luis Almeida.

Photos and quote from Kate Bevitt, "Music to the Tastebuds: Deep Purple Sweet Potato and Other Varieties Coming Soon" June 26, 2014.

Near me, similar work goes on at Cold Spring Orchard, which is a test orchard for the University of Massachusetts. Sometimes when you go there in the fall, you can taste-test new varieties of peaches or apples--sometimes they don't even have names yet, just numbers.


asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Timor-Leste nia bandiera)
Doing some research, I came across this moving song, "Timor Oan Mos Bele," ("We Timorese Can Do It"), sung in Tetun, Portuguese, and English. It's addressed to everyone in Timor-Leste and urges them not to lose faith in the possibility of a good future for the country.



hatudu ba ema katak Timor oan mos bele,
labele lakon esperansa tuba rai metin
no lao ba oin nafatin

We have to show people that we Timorese can do it
We can't lose hope; we must stand firm
And continue to walk forward


The little signs say things like "Fight Corruption," "Education Starts in the Household," "Stop Using Violence," and "Create Peace and Love."

There are lots of tensions in Timor-Leste; violence and corruption1 are problems, and I bet it's easy to get discouraged. But lots of people are doing such great work--I'm not talking about million-dollar initiatives; I'm thinking just of the ordinary people I met, who are running computer classes or transportation services, or investing in a washing machine and then offering laundry services, etc. And those are just the people I was aware of from my brief stay. But meanwhile there's a law in the works that may restrict journalistic freedom, and there've been some pretty dramatic police actions . . . so, I appreciate the spirit of this song, and I hope people hang on to this spirit.

Timor Oan Mos Bele Halo--Viva Timor!


(And I do love learning language through listening to songs. Phrases I learned today include fiar-an, "believe in yourself," and ida-idak, "everybody.")

1Like this worrying story about petty police corruption that came down the line this morning from the East Timor Action Network :-(


Profile

asakiyume: created by the ninja girl (Default)
asakiyume

April 2025

S M T W T F S
  12345
678 9101112
131415 16171819
2021 2223242526
27282930   

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated Apr. 23rd, 2025 12:43 pm
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios