asakiyume: (shaft of light)
On the first day we spent together, my friend took me down to the edge of Yahuarcaca. That name goes with a group of lakes connected to the Amazon, los lagos Yahuarcaca, but she calls it/them río--Río Yahuarcaca. Like the main river, it inhales and exhales. The waters are at their highest in April or so, and then begin to recede. In June (when I was there this time) they're not at their lowest, but they've receded a good bit. So as you walk beside the water, you're walking in places where you'd be swimming at other times of year. You'd be waaaay under water in April, but in June you're on (more or less) solid ground, breathing air. The same trees that feed the terrestrial creatures drop fruit into the water to feed the water creatures at other times of year. They're watching over and providing for everyone.

"When the forest is flooded, this is a nursery for fish," my friend told me.

A fish nursery when the water is high

Wouldn't you feel safe there? A good place to grow big. It was the fishes' turn to be in this space a few months ago, but at that moment it was our turn. We're sharing the space, just time-slipped. Water creatures were swimming by and over me--time-slipped.

Trees must grow very wise indeed, presiding over two worlds like this. Think of the tales they can tell of all the creatures they watch over.

Genipa americana, known as huito in Spanish, é in Tikuna, is a very wise and generous tree. Francy told me it's a great-great-great grandparent of the Ticuna people.** So when she and her brother took me to meet a huito tree, I felt really lucky to meet it.

Its fruit is edible when ripe, and when unripe, it makes a blue-black protective dye (as described in this entry). In the blink of an eye, my friend's brother was up in the tree. He tossed down a couple of unripe fruits so we could grate them and make some dye back at their house.

ȧrbol de huito (Genipa americana)

**Online I found the story of this written out: Yoi and Ipi, two brothers, came to Earth when it was completely dark: they cut down the giant ceiba that was obscuring the sun, and all manner of plants and animals then were able to flourish. Yoi, the older brother, gave Ipi, the younger brother, the task of growing huito and then grating the fruits. Some of the gratings fell into the water and became fish, which later Yoi caught. The fish he caught became the Tikuna people.
asakiyume: (shaft of light)
When we went to the Amazon in July, I took this photo of a banyan, also known as an arbol caminante, or walking tree, because of how it spreads. The water was low at this point--you can see the ground beneath the tree.

renaco, lago tarapoto

Now here are some banyans in March, when the water was much higher. You can no longer see the ground! But you can also see the high-water mark--that's how much higher the water will rise.

renaco, lagos yahuarcaca

I promised some pictures of me in a banyan... )

We went in a canoe with no motor, just paddles, for this trip into the flooded forest. R and L, my husband-and-wife guide team, took up the paddles, and I felt too colonialist "explorer" for words and said, "I can do some paddling," and R said, "Oh you have a job. It's to scoop out the water as it seeps in."

This was my scoop:
water scoop

(This job was not very demanding.)

There were beautiful flowers...

flower, flooded forest

flores matamata

From time to time R made a loud "oump! oump!" call.

"What are you calling?" I asked.

"Cayman," he said.

But who answered was not a cayman but an unseen fisherman. L giggled.

We saw a sloth! And then both R and L whistled for it. Apparently female sloths whistle (or scream) to attract a mate.

More flooded forest...

lagos yahuarcaca

grama lote

And the flooded coast

high water off Mocagua
asakiyume: (shaft of light)
I have so much in my head that the words pile up behind... my mouth? or my typing fingers? jostling to be first to come out. So before I try to say anything, I'll just share two clusters of photos, first an assortment of four I shared on Facebook (but you guys here get more context!)

The Facebook Four )

And here is a lower-water, higher-water comparison. The first photo is one I took in July, when we went when the water was low, but not as low as it gets. The second is a photo in the same spot that I took this trip. I thought March was the highest-level time, but it turn out that's in April. So this is high--but not as high as it gets!

lower and higher )

More to come ... and slowly slowly I will also be reading entries I've missed while away (though probably not all...)

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